Santiago

I didn't hear many people talk about this town, which is odd because it turned out to be one of my favorites, therefore I'll begin with it. I arrived fresh off the boat (sort of like my great grandparents to the States) on a Sunday, which little did I know, happened to be the day of the week where the town sets up a huge open market. As you can guess by my many rants against consumerism and consumption, I'm not really the shopping type, but this place seemed different and captured my interest, so I decided to wander around. The first thing to catch my attention was that everything seemed to be locally run and all products (like clothing, statues, jewelry, etc) all were hand made. Everything looked so interesting, but still, I was hesitant to make a purchase... that is until I found this:

Whenever I go somewhere, I usually like to bring back some small gifts for family and friends back home, and since my family and friends are weird like me, I figured they'd like these turtle statues too. Therefore it was haggling time! Breaking out my infant-level Spanish, I asked "Quanto Cuesta?" (How much does it cost). The lady said 50 quetzales, obviously testing me to see if I was just another great fool of a tourist. To her credit, I have many bizarre and abnormal characteristics, but a fool is not one of them! I responded by suggesting 20 instead. The game had begun!

She countered by dropping her price down to 40, refusing to go any lower. I then raised mine to 25, showing that I too was ready to dig in my heels. There was a very long pause, like stoic chess masters waiting motionless for the next move. Finally she said 30 as a final offer. I had to stop and think. 'Could this be the agreed middle? Should I push my luck?' Naturally, I pushed my luck and asked if I could have two for 50. She paused and looked up.

"No."

Very well then. I turned to look and see what else might be in the store. Then she called out to me.

Si. (she said more things than just 'Si' but I don't quite remember)

Smiling, I accepted the two turtles for 50 and thanked her kindly. I now had something to bring back for people at home, and she seemed quite happy to have made the sale to. I then continued through the town and explored what else was there, which turned out to be pretty unique for it's kind. Beyond the market was a thriving local community with schools, houses, and a huge plateau facing one of the volcanoes (seen below). There were no hordes of tourists, and everything felt so much more culturally authentic. I wish I got to explore more, but by this time, the sun saw starting to set and I needed to return to where I was staying and satisfy my hunger with dinner.

San Marcos

Before arriving, San Marcos was described to me as a 'yoga town', and at first glance, that seemed pretty accurate. All along the main walkway there are yoga studios, artisan cafes, holistic shops, and (possibly) hand-made clothing stores. Normally, this would seem pretty interesting, but I found some of this unsettling. Here's why:

Everything was run by expats and seemed to be set up for tourism. It seemed like all the local Mayan people were pushed out to the slums on the outskirts by hordes of white people with dreadlocks and elephant pants claiming to be massage therapists and spiritual healers. It just seemed really artificial and the stark inequality between locals and expats really bothered me. Granted I have no problems with people being yoga instructors and massage therapists. If it makes you happy, power to you and go for it. But it would be infinitely better if people from the actual community were involved. This just seemed like a take-over.

But that said, I do want to shine a spotlight on two things I did like here. The first is a small cafe called Konojel. This one is entirely run by Mayan women and most of the profits go back to help feed and provide education for the local community. Their mission statement is written on their fliers and the people there work tirelessly from dawn to dusk. I made sure to eat here every time I was nearby and the food was much more traditional, delicious and affordable (especially the breakfast), and the coffee was amazing. So, if you find yourself in San Marcos, definitely eat here.

San Pedro

Some really cool street art can be found here

If San Marcos is to be described as the 'yoga town', then San Pedro would be the 'party town'. However, this description doesn't fully do it justice. Sure, there are more bars here than any of the surrounding villages, but there are also a bunch of restaurants, cafes, bookstores, markets, and a vibrant local community. And unlike San Marcos, it hasn't entirely been overrun by tourists, so it is still possible to find some local culture. Just make sure you venture out beyond the area of the arrival dock. That place is built up for tourism and is fairly tacky, not to mention very overpriced. Avoid it. The further into the town you go, the more actual personality you find. Plus, this requires you going up a steep hill, meaning you'll get gigantic quads the more you explore.

One thing I found pretty interesting though was the abundance of Spanish schools scattered throughout the town. Therefore, if you plan on staying near Atitlan and hope to get involved with the local people (instead of the white dudes with dreadlocks), come here and get to know the language. I never checked the price for classes, but I imagine it's pretty affordable. Also, there's a lot of cool graffiti all around town so definitely check that out too.

One place I recommend (although I unfortunately forget the name) is a relaxing Caribbean style bar on the first street to the right once you arrive. It's right on the side of the hill overlooking the water, run by locals, and is often playing Bob Marley. The whole atmosphere is super relaxed (quite fittingly) and it was nicely secluded from the noise of tourism. If you can, try to go here right when the sun is about to set. I was lucky enough to time this right (something I am almost never able to do), and the view was absolutely unreal. Keep your eyes pealed for it and if I remember the name, I'll update this post.

San Juan

Ok, so I never actually made it to San Juan, but I did hear quite a bit about it from my friend Quincey, as well as other travelers around the lake. So, therefore, I'll try to piece together what it is like. Anyway, here goes. Unlike the nearby San Marcos and San Pedro, San Juan is far less touristy, and instead has a vibrant local Mayan community. The town centers around the practice and livelihood of weaving clothing and other textiles, and if you want, you can join along and make something (or at least attempt to make something) of your own. The atmosphere is very calm and quite authentic, especially when compared to its neighbors. Definitely check it out if you want an actual cultural experience.

Tzunana

Although the whole area around the lake is amazing, nearly every town has a similar problem: too many tourists. Well, that is every town except Tzunana. This was the closest settlement to my residence at Maya Moon Lodge, so naturally I took it upon myself to check it out. The whole place is rather small and rests on the side of a hill. It is mostly comprised of houses and has two cafes and a couple mini shops for food. There are no pricey yoga studios, nor are there white people with dreadlocks or elephant pants anywhere is sight (huge plus for Tzunana!). Also, it is said that if you go up through the town into a trail in the woods, you can allegedly find a pretty amazing waterfall. I say allegedly because neither Quincey, nor I, nor many other people I met were able to find it. But that said, when I return, I'll try again. Determination!

Panajachel

I start here because, most likely, this is where any visit to Atitlan will begin. If you're taking a bus or shuttle from Guatemala City, Xela, or Antigua like me, this is the town where they all go. The city itself is a little more run down than some of the other towns around the lake, but it serves as a good connection point whether you want to travel around the lake or to other towns throughout the country. It's pretty convenient for any sort of travel since the hub for buses and shuttles is right by the docks. And along with that, Panajachel has both a bank and a supermarket (both of which are extreme rarities anywhere else around the lake).

The Others

I never made it to the other towns around the island, but some stops I heard people talk about include Santa Cruz La Laguna, San Pablo, Jaibalito, and San Antonio. Feel free to go check them out!